Thursday 5 December 2013

Highlighting and Contouring




This is highlighting and contouring done with both concealer and powder.
Basically, when you are contouring you shade any areas that you want to bring back and you highlight the areas that you want to draw forward. I applied a base first ad the with a darker concealer I applied it under the cheek bones, around the temples and te sides of te nose, but this will really depend on the persons face shape, nose and eye shape as you always want to try and achieve an oval face shape because an oval face shape is the most symmetrical and as a make-up artist it is important that you can create symmetry to make things appear as the same shape.
I then blended the concealer downwards under the cheeks the same of the sides of the nose. I then took a lighter conceler and applied this to the bridge of the nose, the cheek bones, the brow bone, 3/4 of the way under the eye in a C shape around to the eye bone. I then applied powder all over te face to set everything. I was doing it very natural here but to give a more dramatic effect you can go back over the areas with bronzer and highlighting powder.. As they say.. Darken the darks and lighten the lights!! Thats the motto when doing contouring .

   A good and useful video to watch is the kim Kardashin video of contouring. The Tom Ford Contour plate is amazing to do this with also. One of the best Iv used but it is quite expensive so be warned!!

Contemporary Elizabethan Make-up





This was a contemporary Elizabethan make-up that I did on Kira from my class. I used the Illamasqua white foundation based mixed with a Matt primer. Before I started my make-up look I moisturised the skin very well as the white base can tend to look a bit dry or chalky which I didn't want to happen. I applied the base with a stippling brush. The reason I use this brush so much is because I really like working with it, it buffs the product really well and really really works it into the skin.
     I then went over the base with a large kabuki brush and buffed it again. This gave it a really really nice effect, ad yet some how o Kira , I think it could work as her natural ski colour haa.. I then made sure to powder really really well. I used a Translucent Illamasqua powder to set the make-up and get rid of any shine , especially around the nose area and under and around the eyes as that's where most likely it is to shine or for te base to stick and crease or bleed.
     A good way to test to see if you have powdered enough is to place the back of your hand on the models skin and if it feels i anyway sticky you need to powder more. I then did a thin bit of black liner on the upper lash line and applied mascara using a disposable wand. I then lined the lips with a nude liner and then went over that with a red lipstick. I very slightly contoured the cheeks to give a bit of definition.

   This look had really inspired me fora design including a darker lip and a slightly more contoured face to make it look a bit more dramtic

My 250 word evaluation of me creating my partners design


On the day of y partners assessment she hadn't provided me with any notes, diagrams or a face chart of what I was doing on the day, so this for me was one of the bigger challenges to try and over come. I also had awful news the night before which made me very upset both mentally and emotionally, though I tried to block it out and not think about it. It was quite difficult to stay focused and think about what I was doing which didn't add to the fact that I also had nothing to work from.
   We had practised the the make-up and hair during the week before the actual exam so I had a basic idea of what I was doing. I had a photo to work from o my partners phone which did help me. My partner provided all make-up, brushes etc for me for the day and I did the same for her. We decided this was easier because if she wanted a specific brush to be used or product that I didn't have she would have to bring it so instead of us each bring in certain things we just said it would be easier if when it is your design you bring the brushes, make-up skin care etc as you know what you like to use . We also felt hat this gave a better insight into the real industry as if you designed a make-up we thought you might have to supply the hair equipment and make-up products , brushes, clips etc to create the look and also for a hygiene point of view, if your make-up brushes are used only on you as much as possible it stops cross contamination.
   She calmed me down during the assesment which really helped me focus on the bigger picture. She was a real eam player ad Im really glad I got to do my assessmet with her. I felt her design had alot of Elizabethan references to it ad I found it quite interesting, the pattern and how detailed it was which she included in her design with a detailed eye liner effect.





Timed Assessmet









This is my design from my timed assessment in university. I designed the hair and make-up look and then someone else had to create it for me. .
-The make-up consultation 2 pages including product list- where the product was used and the color of it.
-Face chart
-An indepth step by step guide on creating the make-up look
-Photos of the make-up


                                      Final image's from the asessmet





Tuesday 12 November 2013

Experimentation with Contemporary Elizabethan Make-up Design.

 

 


     I'm going to talk about some of my contemporary Elizabethan Make-up designs. Inspired by many different things. The first one I'm not sure if I like. How I had pictured it in my head wasn't how it came out to look. The first look has been inspired by images and words in a song. The images are of contemporary make-up which I really liked and struck me so I wanted to try and incorporate something like it into my designs. The inspiration from the song is the following paragraph

         '' loving him is like driving a new Maserati down a dead end street. Loving him is like trying to change your mind once your already falling through the free fall, losing him was blue like iv never known, missing him was dark grey all alone but loving him was red, burring red
 ''


So basically the story behind the make-up is when I heard the song from Taylor swift called Red. It reminded me very much of queen Elizabeth before she had her love affair and become a very powerful ruler. ''Loving him was like driving a new Maserati down a dead end street'' this to me gives me an image of freedom which is what a lot of the Elizabethans had, epically the woman in terms of other countries in the world at the time, Which reflects the powder to be free on the face without any real sort of structure, to allow the powder to drop to the bottom of the eye and just wipe it or smudge it. The colours are from the song which are also colours worn by the Elizabethans which were royal colours and meant you had power or where important.
  From the colours in the song, I got this image of a woman who had been emotionally hurt which is much like queen Elizabeth in terms of her love affair and having it not work out, she was hurt by this. And by proving to her people she was loyal to them and to keep her level of power she chose to stay single, not so much because she wanted to but because she felt like she had to or she would lose what she had. So I kept the colours near the eyes to reflect pain and emotion as when a person is upset or sad they tend to cry which comes from the eyes I wanted to use the red blush and the white face to make a very clear Elizabethan reference and chose the colour red as that is the colour of power and also is the title of the song. This colour red means so much to both Taylor swift and in the Elizabethan times. Iv kept the lip a simple undefined pale pink to represent the lip in Elizabeth times as this is a look mostly based around emotion and culture I felt to have another clear Elizabethan reference to keep the lip referencing the lip they would have used.

I would really love some feed back on this as I'm a bit unsure about the idea if it fits the brief correctly or if I have gone off on a bit of a tangent






My second look I created was inspired by the Viven Westwood runway look where you take part of the Elizabethan feature and apply it and also from the lash pigmentation class we did with our lecturer Lara where she showed us how to pigment the colour of the lashes to make them any colour you want. I really liked the way it look and felt it gave a very interesting twist on the Elizabethan look, also because in class we have been working so much with lashes in the past few weeks and colours I thought it all blended in really well with everything we have learned in the past few weeks, and what better way to practice everything then to combine some of the techniques.




This is my second experiment look. I quite like this one. I would like to add something to the lip to make it that bit more modern and give it quite a twist. I chose the colour red because I like that colour lipstick on me and because I used my hair extensions to do the pin curls and two of them were red so I felt it made since. I also like using the colour red throughout my look as going back to my original idea the colour red meant power, and authority and was a symbolic colour in Elizabethan times. I'm thinking of using red Christmas bulb decorations in place of the pin curls as my hair being short has encountered a lot of problems when trying to make the pin curls look decent. Plus I also wanted to add a modern twist or accessory to the look so I thought they would be kinda fun to play around with and maybe a bit more different to what other people would chose. Plus its so close to Christmas we might aswell try and include it!  I have a few other looks that I would like to try out aswell so I will post up about 4 or 5 more
 

Contemporary Elizabethan make-up and inspirations for my own Designs

I think that this photo has a lot of Elizabethan References in a very modern way, The high collar, the hair, and I really love the colours in this around the eyes, also the really pale white face and soft pink natural lip is a very clear Elizabethan reference.  

 I just love this image so much I'd really like to try and figure out a way to do something like it in my own design. I love the freedom that the make-up has, that it is unstructured and a bit more on the abstract side. REALLY love this!

This reminded me of like Elizabethan meets Alaska. Quite a weird combination I know but when I looked at this I just saw Elizabethan influences. The more kinda white skin, the lavish accessories, the big hats and the royal colours used through the whole colour scheme within the make-up and styling. The soft pastel colours in the lips, the blue obviously being more modern and contemporary.

Then we have Viven Westwood which gave me lots of inspiration for a make-up design. The white blank face with no real definition in it. But I love how the whole face isn't covered in the white,  There's parts on the forehead etc that aren't covered. Taking parts of the Elizabethan Make-up, I really like this idea ALOT.


                 This is possibly one of my favourite images, I love Z!INK magazine , The white pale skin is a reference to the Elizabethan make-up style., the red circle blush has been applied more up on the cheek bone closer to the eye area to have a more contemporary twist on it. The eye brow has also been covered, but has had green placed over it instead of leaving it the basic white colour. You can see that the ears are also covered with the same white pale colour and has been used down onto the neck as well.



      This one has very obviously and clear Elizabethan References. White face, Big curly hair, the lace and frizzles on the collar making the face look very delicate which is what the Elizabethans strived to achieve. But then there is this very modern and dark lip fully defined and winged black eye liner . The collar has been made to be over large and to exaggerate it .



Elizabethan Make-up applied in studio.




This is my Elizabethan make-up applied and photographed in the make-up studio. I used the Illamasqua white foundation base and I mixed it with a matt primer to create a very matt finish. Before applying the base I applied a rich moisturiser to the face and neck as my partners skin was quite dry and I find the white base to look quite dry on the skin and if you don't moisturize really well before apply it , it just doesn't sit well on the skin. I used a buffing foundation brush to apply it as I find they give a better finish and I find them easier to use. I applied the base to the face, neck and ears so that every where that would be visible would be the pale white colour. I then went over the base with a large kabuki brush to really buff the base and work it into the skin. For the eye brows I covered them with the same base as I did doing the face and then after I had the face and neck really buffed I went back over the brows and really focused on the eye brows with a brow brush applying a base through the hairs of the brow and not onto the skin.
 I then applied a white face powder using cotton wool pads in a rocking motion applying lots of powder all over the face to create that same texture that the Elizabethan's had in their make-up and to give that really matt finish like they had. Once the powder was applied I then applied a small amount of powder pink blush in a circle motion to the apple of the cheek area and didn't blend it back to the ear or on the cheek bone but instead just blended the edges so it didn't look like a clown make-up. I then applied a small bit of pink blush to the lip area undefined to represent what they would have done .
It was quite interesting to do the Elizabethan make-up and it gave me some inspiration for my final design. Looking at the photos of the make-up  I find is always better then looking at the make-up through the mirror or directly at the person. I think I should have focused a bit more around the eye area and really brought the base closer to the eye area and to really powder it around the area and eye lid aswell. I think a small bit more powder could have been done around the forehead and nose area just to give it that really matt finish. Feed back on this of any kind would be hugely appreciated. ! :)